Amsterdam apartments are not all built the same way. The wall in your Overhoeks new-build is not the wall in your NDSM loft is not the wall in a 1970s Noord flat. What's behind the plaster determines everything — which fixings work, which drill bit you need, whether that 40kg screen stays up or comes down at 2am. Most people find this out mid-job.
The walls you're actually dealing with
Aerated concrete block — new-builds, Overhoeks, most post-2010 construction
This is the one that catches people out most. Aerated concrete — sometimes called Ytong — looks and feels solid. It's not. It's full of air pockets, which is the point: good insulation, lightweight. But standard wall plugs grip by expanding against the material. In aerated concrete they just pull through.
You need specialist fixings — longer anchors designed for the material, or frame fixings that go deep enough to grip properly. A TV bracket on standard plugs in aerated concrete is not a question of if it comes down, it's when.
Plasterboard on a metal or timber frame — partition walls, some new-builds
Knock the wall. If it sounds hollow, it's plasterboard over a frame. The frame studs are your only solid fixing point — typically spaced 40 or 60cm apart. Hit a stud: solid. Miss it: the fixing goes into nothing.
A stud finder helps. So does knowing that most VESA bracket patterns are designed around standard stud spacing — worth checking before you order the bracket. Hollow wall anchors work between studs for lighter loads. For a large screen, find the studs.
Solid brick or concrete — canal houses, older buildings, some load-bearing walls
The most forgiving material to drill into, ironically. Masonry drill bit, standard rawlplug, done. The challenge here is usually the finish — older walls can be uneven, plaster can crack around the fixing if it's not done carefully, and some canal house walls have surprising cavities from old pipe runs.
Canal houses lean. Walls are not always plumb. Check before you mount — a spirit level on the wall tells you what you're working with before you touch the bracket.
Concrete — NDSM lofts, some post-war construction
Hard, consistent, reliable — but you need a hammer drill and a proper masonry bit. A regular drill won't do it, or will do it very slowly and badly. Rawlplugs work well once the hole is right.
The bracket matters too
Not all brackets are equal and the cheapest ones show it over time.
- The VESA pattern needs to match your screen — it's a standard, but double-check the measurements before ordering
- Fixed brackets sit the screen closest to the wall and are the most stable
- Tilt brackets let you angle the screen down — useful if the mount point is higher than ideal
- Full motion arms give maximum flexibility but put the most stress on the fixings — on aerated concrete especially, more leverage means more load on the plugs
- Weight rating on the bracket should exceed your screen weight with margin, not match it exactly
Cable management — the part everyone forgets
The bracket goes up, the screen looks great, and then there's a cluster of cables hanging down the wall. In a rented apartment you probably don't want to chase cables into the plaster. In a new-build with aerated brick walls you technically could but it's rarely worth it.
Options that work without damaging walls: cable channels painted to match the wall colour disappear well if done carefully. Routing cables behind the screen itself using the bracket's cable management clips. A single cable conduit run vertically down to a media unit below.
The cleanest installs plan this before the bracket goes up, not after.
When to call someone
- If you're not sure what the wall is made of
- If you've already drilled and the plug isn't gripping — stop before you make it worse
- If the bracket is going above a bed, sofa, or anywhere a falling screen causes real damage
A TV mounting job done right takes under two hours including cable management. Done wrong it takes longer to fix than it did to break.
What it costs
TV mounting in Amsterdam-Noord from €150 excl. BTW — includes wall type assessment, correct fixings for the material, bracket installation, basic cable management. Fixed price agreed before anything starts.
That minimum covers the visit, the assessment, and the job done right. Stack it with a lamp installation, shelf hanging, or furniture assembly in the same session and you're getting more done for the same call-out.
FAQ
What wall type do most Amsterdam new-builds have?
Aerated concrete block for most internal walls, with some plasterboard partitions. Neither takes standard wall plugs well — both need specific fixings. If you're in Overhoeks, IJburg, or similar post-2010 construction, assume aerated concrete until confirmed otherwise.
Can I mount a TV myself?
On solid brick or concrete, yes — if you have a hammer drill and the right plugs. On aerated concrete or plasterboard the margin for error is smaller and the consequences of getting it wrong are worse. Know what you're drilling into before you start.
How long does TV mounting take?
Under two hours for a standard install including cable management. Longer if the wall needs specialist fixings or the cable routing is complex.
Do you supply the bracket?
We can, or you can buy your own — confirm the VESA pattern and weight rating match your screen. Either way, the fixing is what matters most.